Rip Curl's Postcards From Morgs featuring; Mick Fanning, Tyler Wright, Owen Wright and more!
Dr. Morglove or… How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Go On The Search!
I would absolutely lose my banana, kick my tricycle over, spit out all my veggies, fall straight to the ground and head butt the dirt until he got back. I would absolutely lose my banana, kick my tricycle over, spit out all my veggies, fall straight to the ground and head butt the dirt until he got back.
Even then I knew that all I wanted to do was surf.As the years went by I slowly began to navigate my way along the well-worn path that so many surfers from my little town had walked before me. I'm not gonna name any spots here, but my mates and I enjoyed an embarrassment of riches in terms of the quality and variety of waves we could surf on any given day. We had points, slabs, wedges, beachies, bombies, breakwalls and if you really wanted to let it all hang out, there was even a nude beach. More than that though, we had a town full of legends, corelords, alternatives, and burnouts like no other. Some had been there since the earliest days of Albe Falzon, Nat Young, and Baddy Treloar, others had moved to the area seeking a country soul way of life away from the cities, but many, particularly from my era at least, had been born and bred on the reefs and shifting sands of the region. The lineage of amazing style and limitless bravado in the big stuff was matched only by the unique characters of the surfers themselves who populated every shop, every trade, every trawler, and every seat at the pub just about every arvo. Might seem a bit old fashioned but I absolutely loved growing up in a fair-dinkum true-to-life surf town.That was until year 7 when I walked in the front door from school one day to be told by Mum that we were moving to Newcastle. Deadset, I was so devastated I went to my room and cried. I said to Mum "Fuck, this is going to be the shittest thing ever." to which Mum replied, "Swear jar Morgan!" So on top of having to move, I also had to fork $2 out of my pocket money for the swear jar as well. Talk about the worst day ever.I wasn't an extremely shy kid, but I wasn't the coolest kid in school either. I'd settled into high school ok, and now I had to do it all again. Thankfully, within six months of moving to Newcastle, my mind had been changed completely.
"Get the best couple of waves. Smash the fuck out of 'em as hard as you can and you're a chance."
"I grew up watching Owen, I had posters of him doing airs in my room"